Slow travel, good detours.

Destinations

Chiang Mai: northern Thailand's laid-back heart

Ringed by mountains and temples, Thailand's northern capital offers a gentler pace, rich culture and a famous food scene.

In the misty mountains of northern Thailand lies Chiang Mai, a city that offers a gentler, more laid-back alternative to the frenetic energy of Bangkok, with a rich cultural heritage, a celebrated food scene and easy access to the forests and hill villages of the surrounding highlands.

The heart of the city is its old walled centre, a square moated enclave packed with hundreds of ornate Buddhist temples, their golden spires and intricate carvings reflecting the distinct culture of the former Lanna kingdom. Saffron-robed monks are a common sight, and travellers can join temple meditation sessions and "monk chats."

Chiang Mai is famous for its food, from the rich, coconut-curry noodle dish khao soi to the bustling night markets and the Sunday walking street, where stalls sell crafts and street food. It has also become a magnet for digital nomads, drawn by its low cost, good cafes and relaxed atmosphere.

Beyond the city lie the lush landscapes of the north: forested mountains, waterfalls, and ethical elephant sanctuaries, as well as the villages of the region's hill tribes. The cool season brings pleasant weather, while the Yi Peng lantern festival fills the November sky with thousands of glowing lanterns.

Welcoming, affordable and culturally rich, Chiang Mai rewards travellers who linger, offering a window into a distinctive northern Thai culture and a relaxed base from which to explore one of Southeast Asia's most beautiful regions.