Marrakech: a feast for the senses in Morocco's red city
Behind the walls of the old medina lies a labyrinth of souks, palaces and gardens that dazzles and disorients.
Few cities assault and delight the senses quite like Marrakech, the "red city" of Morocco, where behind ochre ramparts lies a labyrinthine old medina of souks, palaces, mosques and gardens that has enchanted and disoriented travellers for centuries.
At its heart is the great square of Jemaa el-Fnaa, which by day hosts snake charmers and juice sellers and by night erupts into a vast open-air feast of food stalls, musicians and storytellers, a spectacle recognised by UNESCO. From the square, the souks spiral off into a maze of covered alleys where artisans hammer metal, dye leather and weave carpets as they have for generations.
Hidden behind plain walls are the riads, traditional houses built around tranquil courtyards with fountains and orange trees, many now converted into atmospheric guesthouses that offer calm retreats from the medina's intensity. The city's palaces and the serene, cobalt-blue Jardin Majorelle offer further respite.
The food is a pleasure, from slow-cooked tagines and fragrant couscous to mint tea poured from on high, and the shopping — lanterns, textiles, spices, leather — is legendary, though haggling is expected and part of the ritual.
Marrakech can be overwhelming, its intensity and hustle demanding a certain resilience. But for the traveller who surrenders to its rhythm, it offers an intoxicating immersion in a culture, a history and a sensory world unlike anywhere else.