Seoul: tradition and neon in Korea's electric capital
Palaces and ancient gates sit beside soaring towers and buzzing night markets in one of Asia's most dynamic cities.
Seoul, the capital of South Korea, is a city of exhilarating contrasts, where centuries-old palaces and serene temples sit in the shadow of soaring glass towers, and ancient tradition coexists with one of the most hyper-modern, fast-moving urban cultures on Earth.
At its historic heart stand grand royal palaces like Gyeongbokgung, where a changing-of-the-guard ceremony unfolds in colourful traditional dress, and the preserved hanok houses of Bukchon village offer a glimpse of old Korea. Nearby, serene Buddhist temples and the old city gates anchor the city's deep history.
But Seoul is equally a city of the future and of the night. Neighbourhoods like Gangnam and Hongdae pulse with neon, fashion, technology and youthful energy, while buzzing night markets and street-food stalls serve everything from tteokbokki to Korean fried chicken into the small hours. The city's cafe culture, beauty industry and the global wave of K-pop and Korean film have made it a magnet for young travellers.
The food alone justifies a visit, from sizzling Korean barbecue and bubbling stews to the national obsession with kimchi and an endless variety of side dishes.
Efficient, safe and endlessly energetic, with a superb subway system knitting it together, Seoul rewards the curious traveller with a city that never seems to stand still. It is a place where one can bow before a palace gate in the morning and lose oneself in a neon-lit night market by evening, all in the same remarkable city.