Tbilisi rising: the cool capital of the Caucasus
Georgia's capital blends ancient churches, sulphur baths and crumbling balconies with a buzzing modern creative scene.
Tbilisi, the capital of Georgia, has quietly become one of the most intriguing cities in the region, a place where ancient history and a buzzing contemporary creative scene coexist in atmospheric, slightly ramshackle harmony.
The old town is a warren of cobbled lanes, carved wooden balconies in various states of romantic decay, and churches dating back more than a thousand years, all watched over by a hilltop fortress and the towering Mother of Georgia statue. In the Abanotubani district, domed bathhouses sit atop natural hot springs, where visitors soak in sulphur baths as travellers have for centuries.
But Tbilisi is far from a museum piece. In recent years it has gained a reputation as a hub of creativity and nightlife, with design shops, galleries, natural-wine bars and a techno scene that draws visitors from across Europe. Soviet-era buildings have been reborn as creative spaces.
The food and wine are a revelation, from cheese-filled khachapuri to the ancient winemaking traditions of the surrounding countryside. And Georgians are famous for their hospitality, treating guests as a gift.
Affordable, welcoming and still relatively under the radar, Tbilisi rewards the curious traveller with a sense of discovery that has become rarer in Europe's better-known capitals. It is a city on the rise, caught at the appealing moment before the wider world fully catches on.